That Heart of Glass

LATTICED SHADOWS SOFTENED AND SHARPENED as the light dimmed and shone from outside. The ground glowed white like a pool of ice, punctuated by tall, slim columns dwarfing aimless visitors walking about. The Buen Retiro Park's Palacio de Cristal was empty on the day I visited; a shell of glass and iron built for the purpose of showcasing its contents, but its splendor nonetheless proves it a showcase in itself.

Erected in 1887 for exhibiting flora from the Philippine islands, the Palacio de Cristal del Retiro was the first non-industrial building in Spain to make use of iron and glass. Designed by architect Ricardo Velázquez Bosco, who took inspiration from London's Crystal Palace, the cupola-crowned metal structure is covered entirely in glass panels, save for a portico overlooking an artificial lake. Its floor plan takes the shape of a three-armed Greek cross, while its cross-section resembles that of a basilica's, with a tall, thin central body flanked by two lower, lateral naves. On the outside, mallards and griffins populate ceramic-tiled spandrels and bases, while cast-iron lion and angel heads spout rainwater away from the building.

Though originally built as a greenhouse, the structure was turned over to the Ministry of Culture after the 1887 exhibit. Co-run by the Museo Reina Sofía, the Parque del Buen Retiro's beautiful heart of glass has since been dedicated to housing temporary exhibits including Kimsooja's spectacularly prismic To Breathe - A Mirror Woman and Pierre Huyghe's La saison de fêtes, whose installation of plant species touches on the venue's original purpose.

Between exhibits, the bare structure houses a whir of footsteps, murmurs and dust particles floating in the light. There's plenty of space for those random, reflective thoughts, contained no less within fabulously reflective surfaces.

Palacio de Cristal del Retiro, Madrid. Photos by Lady San Pedro and a random tourist who took my photo.

Those Winter Years

THEY SAY THAT A PERSON WITHOUT A PAST has no future. Having only had one winter in my past, I look to the many years of winters past for inspiration, particularly ones halfway through the last century.

At a glance, it's easy to see how much more informal in dress the world has grown to be. I try it on some days, that old-world elegance of a long coat with dainty heels, but it slows me down significantly on the daily commute, leaving me shivering much more than I would in more practical clothing.

There's one photo above, of men on a tree, clad in sturdy boots, pants and shorter coats. The image says it: menswear provides its wearers much more agility than mid-century womenswear did. Not that we would actually need to climb a tree on any given day, but in ensembles borrowed from the boys, if we had to, we probably could.

And yet, how much lovelier do the ladies look!?

Winter fashion from the 50s, 60s and 70s. All images from www.gettyimages.com

This Merry Little Christmas

"HOW WILL HE KNOW how to find us next year? He's so used to coming here."

"You can't fool him. He can find anybody he wants to find."

To all who are leaving home, have left home and missing home, may peace, hope and love continue to find you this Christmas and in the new year, wherever you may be.

"Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas" from Meet Me in St. Louis, 1944. Directed by Vincente Minnelli.